Here they are. The essential rig settings that will make you and I go as fast as mStation. Many thanks to Andy & Dave Richards for divulging their trade secrets.
Elastics
- Around jib furler to keep it upright.
- Across bow between forward ends of capsize line elastics to ensure spinnaker - pole elastic pulley doesn't catch
- Between shroud and Morrison wires about 150mm below the spreaders to prevent the spinnaker snagging on the spreader.
- Between the front racks (near the mast) and the mast to prevent the jib sheets catching.
- Between the shrouds about the height of the forestay pulley (outside the forestay) to prevent the spinnaker fouling in the pulley.
- On the ends of the mainsheet strop
- At the end of the mainsheet and cunningham to approximately bottom of the mainsheet block to keep the rope tails in the boat.
- Between the rear of the racks to prevent the mainsheet becoming caught over the end of the racks.
Rig
Pre-bend
With the mast out of boat:
- Attach the main halyard to the eye above the gooseneck (cunningham)
- With the mast horizontal and the spreaders vertical, pre bend the mast using the Morrison wires such that the distance between the main halyard and the mast track at the spreader height is 120mm
- This setting applies for all conditions
Rake
With mast in the boat, the lowers slack and forestay tension at 30 on Superspar tension meter (about 38 Loos), attach a tape to the main halyard and hoist the hayard until the tape measures 1000mm to the top of the gooseneck. Then measure to the top surface of the aft end of the hull. For less than 20 knots this should measure 2370mm. For more than 20 knots this should measure 2310mm. The difference between these two settings should be one hole on the shrouds.
Mainsheet strop
875mm from mainsheet block to pad eye each side.
Jib cars
Set on 3, always !!
Mainsail setup
- Adjust shrouds for wind conditions
- Adjust lowers such that horizontal creases from the luff extend half way to the leech
Jib
Mark sheets for repeatable setting